Archive for the ‘Cycling Tips’ Category

Pannier Racks

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

What is a pannier rack?

A bike pannier rack is a alloy or steel frame that you can attach to the back of your bike frame. It hangs over the rear wheels and you can then attach panniers to the side and trunk bags on top of the bike rear rack. Tourers also use a front pannier rack for extra storage.

A quality pannier rack and panniers is very important and sometimes it is well worth spending a bit more to get the best gear.

Bicycle pannier racks need to be seriously strong. If you are bouncing down a rough track the last thing you want is a disaster with your gear. At Velogear we stock high quality pannier racks to suit your budget and to suit all types of bikes.

Fitting issues
Most modern general style bikes come standard with two pairs of rack mounting holes on the frame. One pair is on the frame just above the rear axle – the legs of the rack screw in there. The other pair are on the frame about 80-120mm below the seat – you attach the arms of the rack to these points.

 Some bikes however lack a set or both sets of mounting points. It is still easy to fit a rack – see below

Q. I do not have any mounting holes on my bike for the rack arms, what can I do?
A. a) If you have a quick release seat clamp you could try attaching the rack arms to either side of the seat post clamp.
      b) Otherwise you will need to buy a pair of small U brackets from your local bike store or hardware. The U must be the same diameter as the frame where you wish to fit the arms to. The bottom part of the U is coated in plastic to prevent scratching, the top part of the U has a hole in each side – through which you pass a bolt and to which you then attach the rack arms! As you tighten up the bolt the U bracket squeezes shut and will not slide on the bike frame – thus becoming the anchor point for the rack arms.

Q. I do not have any rack mounting holes, what can I do?
A. You can still fit a rack to a bike with no rack mount points – simply follow answer b) above for both the rack arms and legs – buy attaching the U brackets for the rack legs to each side of the frame, just above the axle.

Tips For Packing Bicycle Panniers

Friday, May 28th, 2010

Packing your panniers can be complicated, especially when you do it for the first time.

Once you start touring you will quickly discover what works for you and what doesn’t. But until then here are some tips to help.

1. Organise & Categorise – Panniers have a natural tendecy to ast like bottomless pits, where the most important items always get stuck down the bottom of the pannier. That is the last thing you want during a storm, when you are trying to find your wet weather gear.

Start by organising your things into categories. Put all the food, cooking gear and tools & spare parts into one bag. Your clothes and sleeping gear into another bag. Fixing a tyre for example will take far less time if your spare tubes, puncture kits and tyre levers are all in the same section.

2. Balance The Weight – Your bicycle should be well balanced, from side to side and from front to back. A lopsided bike will be difficult to steer, and thus dangerous to ride. Uneven weight also puts unnecessary pressure on the racks and frame of the bike.

3. Pack Important Items On Top – Think about what you are likely to need during the day and then put these things near the top of the pannier, where they can be easily accessed. Rain gear, snakcs, and tool kits generally fall under this category. We strongly recommend a handlebar bag for storing items such as your phone, wallet, camera and maps.

4. Bulky Items Go Outside The Bike PanniersNot everything has to go inside your bicycle panniers. Bulky items such as tents can be strapepd on top of the rear pannier bags. To make this waterproof store inside a garbage bag.

5. Leave Extra Space – There is always something you will pick up along the way, whether it’s a souvenir you pick up or extra food and water for particularly remote stretches. If your bags are bursting before you leave, they are too full!

6. Protect Sensitive Things – Some things don’t do well with the bumpy nature of bike travel. Anything liquid like cooking oils, honey and shampoo should all go in the strongest container you can find, and stand it upright in your pannier. Place any electronics in a soft padded case, and place between clothes for extra protection.

Don’t Know Which Panniers To Choose?

Tuesday, May 25th, 2010

At Velogear we sell a wide range of panniers. To help choose the perfect pannier for you we have come up with some handy tips to help your decision making process.

What is the sole purpose of your bicycle panniers?

Shopping – We stock a few stylish shopping panniers.

Commuting or Day Tours – You will find anything from a size 14L pannier to 50L will be extremely sufficinet for these needs. These bags will fit things like computers, folders and items suitable for day trips.

Touring – Anything from a size 32L to our largest size 68L will suffice. If you need more room you can always purchase handlbar bags for easy access items, trunk bags and a saddle bag to store your tools and spare tubes. The more expensive bike panniers have more positive systems to hold them securely on the rack and are made from heavier duty material.

Things to consider when purchasing a touring bike pannier:

  • Lightweight materials – At Velogear we stock a range of pannier bags from lightweight to the slightly more heavier duty pannier bags to cover all your needs.
  • Reflection – Majority of our panniers have some sort of reflection strip or safely riding at night.
  • Sturdiness – As with most products, the more you pay the better the quality is. So our more expensive bike panniers are super sturdy as the are held in place by pannier hooks AND a locking device for maximum safety.
  • Waterproof – If you want this extra featuer then you will have to pay that little bit more. However, if you want to save some bucks, line your bicycle pannier with garbage bags or shopping bags to keep everything dry.

More quick tips:

  • On longer trips, use front and rear panniers to distribute the weight evenly over both wheels.
  • Avoid overloading handlebar bags, which can impair sterring. You can distribute the weight with a set of trunk bags or small pannier bags.
  • When packing your pannier remember to leave items such as maps, snacks, water and waterproof items at the top for easy access.

10 Steps to Comfort

Tuesday, May 11th, 2010

Given up riding because you find your old warhorse just isn’t comfortable anymore?

There are quite a few things you can do to rejuvenate your bike without breaking the budget.

1 Handlebar Tape

The padding on your handlebars is one of the easiest ways of getting a more comfortable ride.. Some bar tapes contain a gel material to make them even more forgiving.

2 Gel Padding

If new tape is not good enough then you can insert a piece of foam or gel tape under the handlebar tape, just underneath where you rest your palms.

3 Stem Raiser or Riser Stem

A simple head stem swap or a handlebar raiser can work wonders. You can either remove the old bike stem and replace it with a new head stem with a rise, or insert a stem raiser to raise your effective handlebar height 50mm.

4 Brake Lever Adjustment

Setting your lever with the correct reach will make your life safer, less tiring and increase your braking control. The use of high quality brake cable amplifies your braking efforts.

5  Shifter Cable Adjustment

Slippery, good quality cable reduce shifting effort.

6 Short & Shallow Handlebar

A shorter bar means you do not have o stretch as far when riding, whilst a shallower bar makes it easier to grab your brake lver/shifters.

7 Suspension Seatpost

Modern suspension seatposts are not too heavy, easy to fit and will take all of the jars and knocks of the road out of your ride.

8 Comfortable Bike Saddle

Generally a slightly wider saddle with a tad more padding will provide a noticeable improvement in your comfort.

9 Bigger Bike Tyres

Moving up to bigger tyres will soften your ride considerably without adding any significant rolling resistance.

10 Rear View Bicycle Mirror

If you suffer from a stiff neck or back pain then a rear view bike mirror makes heaps of sense.

More detailed information can be found by following the links.



Pump a Tyre In Nothing Flat with CO2

Thursday, April 29th, 2010

Pump a Tyre In Nothing Flat with CO2

Even the best mini- pumps seem to take take forever, but in an instant a CO2 cylinder can deliver more than enough “air” to get you home. A 16g CO2 cartridge will put about 40psi in a mountain bike tyre and about 125psi in a road bike tyre. And they are small – about 1/6th the size of a mini pump.

CO2 Kits come in two pieces: the CO2 inflator and a replaceable co2 cartridge.

TIPS: consider practicing at least once with a  CO2 cartridge and inflator before you road test your new kit: using one can be a bit daunting on the first try. Also do not hold the CO2 cylinder in your bare fingers as it releases the gas, it can freeze burn  – use your gloves, a rag or buy a cartridge protector.

Carrying Gear on Your Bicycle: A Primer

Tuesday, April 27th, 2010

There’s a wide variety of pannier and bag products to suit your own individual cycling need.

Pannier Racks : these are alloy or steel frames that are attached to the back of the bike frame and hang over the rear wheel. Tourers may also use front pannier racks.

Panniers – 30-50L capacity : pannier bags hang onto pannier racks, over the sides of the rear and/or front wheels. They come in various designs and generally have a big capacity and are perfect for shopping,commutting to work and multi-day touring.

Trunk Bags – 6-12L capacity : rear rack bags sit on top of a rear pannier rack. Moderate capacity with low wind resistance. Some models have small panniers on the side to expand storage room. Ideal for day tours they keep your gloves, rain jacket, lunch, phone, wallet and spare drinks on hand.

Handlebar Bags – 2-4L capacity : attach directly to your handlebars. They keep your map, snacks, phone, rainjacket and wallet within reach. Ideal for day tours.

Saddle Bags – 0.2 to 0.8L capacity : are small capacity bags that fit under your bike seat. Smaller road bike versions can be wedge shaped to fit under a narrow race bike seat (reducing risk of chafing),whilst larger mountain and hybrid bike bags can come with an expandable pocket to increase storage. Great for storing your key,phone, spare tube and change.

Tool Bottles – 0.3 to 0.6L capacity : provide the same function as a small saddle bag, but fit into a bottle cage holder.

Waist Packs – 1-3L capacity : also known as bum bags are worn around the waist and useful for day trips when you are on and off the bike a lot.

Hydration Packs – 1 to 6L capacity : worn like backpacks and their main function is to store water so you can drink without taking your hands off the handlebars-generally offer limited storage capacity.

Backpacks – 15-30L capacity : most small backpacks offer good storage capacity and are suitable for cycling. Some models are cycle specific and offer features such as inbuilt hydration packs and helmet storage.

Bike Baskets – 8 to 16L capacity : exist basically in two types. Front baskets & Rear baskets. The front basket attaches to your handlebar, whilst the rear basket requires a rear pannier rack. Both types have versions that have Q/R (or Quick Release) brackets so that you can readily remove the basket for shopping. Bicycle baskets ar generally made from wire, plastic coated wire or natural cane wicker.

In  future articles we shall discuss the pros and cons of each of these products groups.

Bike Bag Choices

Thursday, April 22nd, 2010

There are a variety of ways of packing your bike away for travel and your final choice will normally be a trade-off between budget, weight and functionality.

There are quite a few different products on the market but they can basically be grouped as:

Bike Boxes, Bike Bags, Bike Cases, EVA Pods

Bike boxes can be as simple as the used box that a bicycle originally came in-bike stores are normally rapt that you will take one- to a specially made corflute plastic box. The bike shop box is FREE , is light and works OK, but you will need to do a lot of internal wrapping, they are hard to carry around, and they are not that solid and easily water damaged. The corflute bike boxes are much stronger – but thats about it.

Bicycle bags are generally made from 600-900D polyester and are water and rip proof. They generally have carry handles, wheels and some versions are padded to an extent so they solve some of the problems of a bike box – but still suffer from side impact. They are economic though, selling from about $80 upto $200.

A bike case is generally made from a hard material like ABS or similar and has the best side impact strength of all of the bike travel case options. They  are the heaviest though, normally about 14kg or so and expect to pay about $350-$550.

EVA Pods have virtually all of the advantages of the hard bike case , but are considerably lighter, about 9kg. They are though, not quite as hard wearing and a sharp object could penetrate the side- mind you I did mention this to a manufacturer and he dared me to poke a hole through one with a pen- I declined his offer but a hard case will provide superior side impact strength.

So whether you are travelling to a local race or packing up to leave Australia there is a good range of options both in stores and online to solve your personal needs.

Winter Riding

Sunday, April 18th, 2010

Wintertime. It is wetter, colder, and there are less daylight hours. For those of you who are struggling for motivation during the winter months here are some tips to keep you warm, dry and comfortable.

Dress in plain, bright colours. Yellow, green, white or orange are best.

A lot of cycle specific clothing has reflective piping or strips on it, this will make your even more visible

Some suggestions for those frosty winter mornings. Remember that you will warm up during the ride. There is no point dressing for arctic conditions when you start if you will end up feeling as though you are in the tropics when you finish.

    • Use layered clothing – remove as you get warm.
    • Buy a windproof and waterproof cycling jacket –  get one that opens down the front and has cooling vents (armpits and back). As you warm up during the ride you can open the front of the jacket and the cooling vents.
    • Try using long cycling tights if you get really cold.
    • Use lycra arm or leg warmers. These can be pulled down (and even right off) while you’re riding.
    • Wear winter cycling gloves – choose a pair (or pairs) that have the right balance between warmth and dexterity. Try a Windtex brand or experiment with 2 pairs – a thin polypropylene pair plus a larger outer pair.
    • Headbands or skull caps will keep your head, ears and part of your face toastie warm. Choose a material that will keep the cold air off, but will not make you too hot, or make your head too big for your helmet.
    • Invest in a set of mudguards to prevent water splashing up from your front and rear tyres. Nothing is more uncomfortable than a wet, muddy stripe up your back after riding along wet roads.
    • Cycling Overshoes are also available to keep your legs and feet dry.
    Obviously a good set of  bike lights is also necessary – but we have covered that in a previous post.

Lights – Did you know the Road Rules?

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010

Bike Lights

Did you know that the road rules require riders to have a white front bike light and a red rear bicycle light at night or in conditions that reduce visibility.

Road Rule 259: Riding at night
“The rider of a bicycle must not ride at night, or in hazardous weather conditions causing reduced visibility, unless the bicycle, or the rider, displays—
(a) a flashing or steady white light that is clearly visible for at least 200 metres from the front of the bicycle; and
(b) a flashing or steady red light that is clearly visible for at least 200 metres from the rear of the bicycle; and
(c) a red reflector that is clearly visible for at least 50 metres from the rear of the bicycle when light is projected onto it by a vehicle’s headlight on low-beam.

With penalties of upto $150 (varies from state to state) it’s a cheap investment to buy a set of decent bicycle lights!

Of course the rules are there for a reason – your safety – which is far more important than a fine!

Cycling lights are available these days to suit all budgets and needs.

Most modern bike lights today have LEDs as the light source  and over the past few years LED bike lights have become very affordable, very bright and have fantastic run times – particularly in flashing mode. They are great ” be seen” bike lights and some of the new generation 3 watt and 5 watt even make do as entry level “to see” bicycle lights”.

WInd, Magnetic or Fluid Trainers?

Monday, April 12th, 2010


The original and most simple bike trainer had a roller that drove fan blades – creating air resistance, and from this, the often used term “wind trainer” arose. They are typically the least expensive and noisiest bicycle trainer.

A Magnetic Trainer (or mag trainer) has magnets that resist each other, and are moderately expensive and moderately noisy. Some magnetic trainers have handlebar mounted control boxes to change the level of resistance during a training session.

Fluid Trainer use liquid-filled chambers to create resistance. They are the most expensive and quietest indoor bike trainer and arguably have the best “road-like” feel to them. If your budget allows, then this is the bicycle trainer to get!  A good supplier should carry parts and have an adequete warranty program in place to back up their  product.

A cycle trainer (turbo trainer is another commonly used term) makes it possible to build bicycle skills and power very efficiently in a highly controlled environment, without the unavoidable interruptions of outdoor riding and are often used during the bleak winter season.

Usually all trainers can be adjusted for most sizes of road and mountain bikes. However, knobby mountain bike tires can cause vibration and noise, although this can be minimized by the use of a belt driven trainer.

As the bike will sit up once you place it in the trainer stand you will need to place a couple of books, or buy a grooved riser block accessory to level the bike out. Another handy accessory is a bike towel – specially designed to sit over your bike frame to catch the – believe me- copious amounts of sweat that you will drip! Otherwise just lay a towel or similar on the floor.