Archive for the ‘Winter Cycling’ Category

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Xcel Compression Clothing

Tuesday, May 25th, 2010

What is bsc compression and why are compression garments beneficial?

What is BSC?
Bsc stands for Body Science Compression. Body science compression garments can increase strength, power and movement efficiency. They also help reduce or even offset the detrimental effects that fatigue has on the body and it’s technique.

Why are compression garments beneficial?
Strenuous physical activity can induce muscle damage, which can lead to decreased range of motion, swelling and impaired muscle function, all increasing the likelihood of injury. Compression clothing help reduce the physical impact and damage associated with strenuous physical activity. They are also useful for recovery purposes. Compression garments help reduce muscle vibration, lactic acid build up, assists blood flow back to the heart and make you more aware of your body’s movements. Your energy is harnessed to help you perform better for longer, so that you enjoy the activity more and recover quicker.

Xcel compression clothing is designed and engineered to optimise your body’s performance level and recovery, no matter what level of activity you undertake. Our compression sportswear is specifically engineered to expedite and enhance recovery so you can always perform at your very best

At Velogear we stock both summer and winter compression garments so you can train all year round. Our range of affordable items include; compressions tights, compression shorts and compression tops.

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Winter Cycling Jackets

Friday, May 21st, 2010

Winter cycling jackets come in several styles and material choices and a choice will depend on your own personal needs and comfort requirements. You may be a casual rider, a serious road cyclist or a daily commuter – each will have different expectations on the jackets composition.

The casual rider may well just need to throw a rain poncho in their kit if the weather is inclement. If you ride regularly in the cold and feel it then you will need something more substantial. Cycling jackets made from special polyester blends offer a great outer layer, they are warm, good ones are windproof yet breathable, and some versions have removable sleeves-just in case the weather turns warmer than expected!

Another popular option is a cycling vest. Basically a sleeveless cycle jacket, you can carry a set of arm warmers to be used as necessary.

Most of these cycling jacket options are not waterproof though so a decent rain jacket needs to be carried. This is not a problem these days as modern micropore systems mean a cycling rain jacket can fold into a hand and weigh as little as 100gm..

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Cycling Arm, Leg & Knee Warmers

Thursday, May 20th, 2010

Arm, Leg And Knee Warmers

One of the problems you will face as a cyclist, whether you are just out for a cruise , serious training or commuting to work, is that of deciding what you need to wear, especially in changeable weather.

You could start early in the morning in the freezing cold, and a couple of hours later as the sun warms up …find you are now a Sunday Roast!

The solution could be a good pair of cycling arm warmers and a decent pair of cycling leg warmers. Usually made from super roubaix, these garments tend to be one of the most useful items of cycling apparel that you can invest in.

Good quality super roubaix material is generally brushed inside to hold warmth plus feel good against the skin, holds its stretch perfectly without deforming after constant use and will hold warmth whilst breathing out moisture.

Set off in the morning with your arms and legs covered and you will keep yourself suitably warm but as the air temperature starts to increase you can roll them down to cover less, even removing them altogether if necessary to keep cool.

Another reason you might find yourself wanting some leg or arm warmers is if you are out on a relatively hilly ride. As you exert yourself more on the uphill sections you may want to roll down your leg and arm warmers to stay cool, but as you accelerate downhill you might cover up again to maintain your body temperature.

Look out for leg warmers with zips at the bottom too as these will allow you to remove them and put them on again without removing your cycling shoes.

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NiMH Batteries & LED Bike Lights

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010

ReChargeable Batteries

The introduction of the Low self-discharge NiMH battery (LSD-NiMH) in 2005 made rechargeable AA and AAA sized batteries more viable for powering LED bike lights. Previously, the self-discharge effect of NiMH batteries caused the battery to run down over a period of weeks or a few months, even when not in use. This was particularly a problem for low powered LED lights, and for users who only used their bicycle lights occasionally. The LSD-NiMH battery greatly reduced the self-discharge effect, allowing the battery to keep its charge for a year or more.

Initial light intensity is a bit lower , as the voltage of the NiMH batteries are 1.2V, compared to 1.5V in an alkaline cell. However taking into account the longer life ,between charges, of a rechargeable, the NiMH solution remains superior over all.

For higher-powered lights, an external battery pack is often required. These battery packs usually strap to one of the horizontal bars on the bike, or come in the shape of a water bottle to mount in the bike’s water bottle holder. A cable connects the battery pack to the light. These Enduro bike lights developed in 2009 are the peak of LED bike lights to date.

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Tuesday, May 18th, 2010

Front LED Bike Lights

Cyclists who only occasionally ride at night benerally opt for an inexpensive LED front light and rear LED flasher. In the past several years white LEDs which satisfy the requirements for a front bicycle light have come on the market. Very high-power LEDs are sensitive to overheating and over-driving, if the enclosure or driving electronics are poorly designed. Both of these conditions significantly shorten the LED’s lifespan, causing them to dim or completely burn out, and LEDs are expensive to replace. Most LEDs have a higher luminous efficacy than halogen lights, but poorly designed driving electronics can negate the advantage. Recent developments in technology  are overcoming these obstacles with 1-5 W reasonably high power cycling lights coming on the market.

Low-power LEDs are adequate for riding on well-lit streets, but do not generally project a very bright beam as it is difficult to collimate the output from multiple LEDs into a single usable beam. This can be overcome by using a few very high-power LEDs – each with their own optics. It is now possible to buy LED equivalents for halogen rechargeable systems (including drop-in replacement bulbs), and LED lights for dynamos. On a dynamo, LEDs produce more light than halogen lights at very low speeds (down to 3 km/h according to one manufacturer).

High-power LED systems often include an option to dim the LEDs. LEDs are well-suited to dimming, as halving the brightness usually more than doubles the battery life. By contrast, halving the brightness of a halogen bulb only slightly increases battery life.

Efficiency is set to increase, as LED technology continues to follow a Moore’s Law pattern of exponential efficiency and cost improvements. As very high power LED bike lights become available and start to replace halogen designs, they may replace incandescent lamps whatever the power source, and will probably challenge HID lights. A 3-watt LED offers similar light output to a basic 10-watt halogen bulb – compare this with current generation “very high brightness” LEDs at 0.05 watts.

In the past couple of years 3-5 W LED cycling lights have progressed to the point where they can be used “to see” reasonably well.

Advantages

  • High luminous efficacy leading to long battery life
  • Lifetime around 50000 hours of operation if current and temperature is managed
  • Can be dimmed, usually with a slight gain in efficiency
  • Instantaneous turn on/off and blinking

Disadvantages

  • Limited light output per single LED
  • High power LEDs require a constant current source

Low power LED lights are mainly for “being seen”, or as an emergency backup, and are the dominant choice for rear lights; higher power LEDs are now moving into the core market for illumination and are subject to rapid technical development.

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Rear Bike Lights

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010
The power of LEDs

Most LED lights will work in either flashing or steady modes. Flashing lights have been shown to be three to five times more visible than a steady light of equivalent brightness. But it has been found that people tend to underestimate the distance to flashing lights and that some drivers may be attracted by them, and there is evidence that they are harder to place than a steady light. Some LED lights have multiple banks of LEDs allowing both flashing and steady light at once. This can also be achieved by having one flashing bike light and one steady one.

In many countries, LED flashers are the norm for rear lights. In others such as Germany flashing lights are forbidden by law. In the UK flashing LEDs (front and rear) as they are in Australia.

The most common power source for rear LEDs is a set of alkaline cells or rechargeable batteries. In both cases the battery tends to fail quickly when it goes; it is widely considered good practice to have two rear lights in case a battery fails en route.

Advantages of LED rear lights

  • Compared with incandescent lamps, near-infinite service life
  • Bright
  • High luminous efficacy
  • Cheap
  • Usually a choice of flashing or steady

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Packing the right bike tools

Tuesday, May 4th, 2010

Bike Tool KitDon’t get caught in the cold!

In the majority of cases having the right tools and spares will get you home in all but extreme breakdowns.

So what do you need to carry.

  • Saddle Bag – a small under the seat bag just large enough to fit your bike tools and spares.
  • Bike Multi tool – a medium size bike tool will have a small range of required screwdrivers, allen keys and a chain breaker.
  • Tyre Levers – tyres are much less flexible in the cold, and your hands may not be so adept, so these are handy.
  • Links – a couple of joining links are handy if you break your chain.
  • Bike tubes – at least two – if you puncture early do you want to think about it for the rest of the ride?
  • CO2 inflator and cartridges – you will be glad of instant inflation when it is cold or raining.
  • Mini Pump - if you are not in a rush, or your mate just borrowed your last cartridge.
  • small piece of rag – wipe your hands, wrap the CO2 cylinder inside it to stop rattling.
  • pre-glued patches – yes you can get more than two punctures in one day!
  • small piece of stiff plastic of section of old tyre – if you happen to cut a tyre badly enough that the tube pokes through – no problems – insert the small piece of plastic or tyre where the cut is – good enough to get you home.
  • emergency money – when all else fails!

Too Cold to go out?

Still train on an indoor fluid trainer.

Posted in Bike Maintenance, Bike Pumps & CO2, Winter Cycling | No Comments »

6 Essential Winter Maintenance Items

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

With rainy weather fast approaching, it is important to get ready for the wear and tear that winter cycling places on your steed!

Whilst it is nice that your whole bike sparkles, it is the drivetrain and brakes that build up huge amounts of gunk and grit => that reduces performance  and increases wear =>leading to increased repair  costs, unless you perform some basic maintenance!

So what do you need, and what do you need to do?

1. Chain Cleaner

2. Bike Cleaning Brush

3. Degreaser Fluid

4. Wet Synthetic Bike Oil

In winter especially, the oil you put on your bike has only a limited life before it becomes a dirty paste, grinding down your sprockets and accelerating chain wear. Products such as a chain cleaner will enable you to easily and thouroughly clean your chain. A cog brush is vital for cleaning the cassette.

Wet lubes hold up better in the rain than their dry counterparts; they do attract dirt quicker though so you need to clean the chain regularly, and change back to a dry oil in the spring.

5. Bike Tool Kit

Whilst the bike is on the stand you may need to make a few small adjustments – having the right tool readily available  is handy.

6. Bike Work Stand

A good bike work stand will last you a lifetime. They make working on your bike so much easier .

And if the rain and cold do get to you finally – you can still keep bike fit  and stay dry and warm , indoors, on a fluid trainer

Posted in Bike Maintenance, Winter Cycling | No Comments »

What to look for when buying: Base Layers

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

Winter Cycling Clothing

When looking to buy a good cycling undershirt it is best to buy a cycle specific brand, as the cycle position is unique and you may find the base layer too short at the back.

Cotton baselayers are cheap, they absorb moisture quickly but are very slow to dry out.

Merino wool layers are very comfortable, don’t smell much and offer good moisture wicking properties.

Synthetics generally have the best moisture wicking properties  but can build up smells rapidly. Some brands such as Red Level have microbial inhibitors to counteract this very effectively. Other brands use a bamboo fibre mix which offer similar good characteristics.

A  cycling undershirt provides the base layer upon which you support your entire winter cycling clothes layers and you will find it a great investment.

If you are still finding it too hard to go out in the cold, consider an indoor fluid trainer.

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Setting Up Your Indoor Bicycle Trainer

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

Most bike trainers will accept both mountain bikes (26″) and road or hybrid bikes (700c). They will generally not fit 24″ or 29″. Tandem bikes are not recommended due to balance issues.

This instructions will be similar for most fluid trainers, magnetic and wind trainers.

1. Set up the cycle trainer on a flat and level floor. Open the legs and ensure all four rubber feet are stable.

2. Attach motor drive following manufacturers instructions.

3. Open up hub couplings so you can install the rear wheel.

4. If your rear wheel has a quick release type skewer, most manufacturers recommend that you replace it with the one supplied with the bicycle trainer, as it has an ideal fit into the couplings.

5. If your rear axle is nutted, then remove the black plastic skewer nut protectors in the couplings.

6. The rear tyre should it in the centre part of the roller drive, adjust coupling position and/or wheel position screws if required.

7. Ensure tyre has normal air pressure.

8. Contact the drive roller to the tyre by turning the micro adjust knob, it just needs to touch the tyre, compressing it 2-3 mm only.

9. If fitted to your bike trainer you can then install the resistance lever to your handlebar.

10. Note resistance on a fluid trainer is much more subtle than on a magnetic trainer, and is not as noticeable when you first start.

11. If your remote shifter does not work it may need adjusting as the cable can stretch. This is done by removing the shifter from the handlebar,  setting your shifter to the High position, straighten the cable, then adjust the cable tension nut and screw on the lever.

Posted in Trainers, Winter Cycling | No Comments »

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